Santorini

Let’s just say it ain’t what I thought it would be. The surprises keep coming this summer. Makes me wonder how wrong I might have been in other aspects of my life. But let’s not go there.

I am only here because there was a nonstop flight from Düsseldorf to the Cyclades on the right date. I had no interest to see this overrun-touristy-kitschy-poster-size-photo-opportunity-Instagram-loving locale. In case you have forgotten, I don’t do well with crowds.

So, dum-di-dum I get dropped off at some ordinary looking little chapel square and start following directions to these tiny crooked stairs on the right and an alley to the left and a hole in the wall gate with more stairs on the right and BOOM, I look up to one of the most stupendous views ever. Ever? Maybe. Top five for sure. Mind-boggling. As per usual the gut is a step ahead of the brain and I tear up from all this beauty hitting my eyeballs. My assumptions crumble like a Scottish short bread cookie.

That was Hour 0.75 to be exact and you will now not be surprised to hear that by Hour 1.5 I was infatuated, by Hour 3.0 in love, and by Day 2 ready to say YES in a stylish white linen dress.

I am staying in IMEROVIGLI, a village on top of an imposing cliff north of Fira and smack in front of Skaros Rock, a striking volcanic promontory that once served as the island's medieval capital. To my right (North) the coast curves to the village of OIA, which is the most famous settlement on the whole island for its spectacular sunset views you have all seen on posters. From the water and at a distance, it appears that the white washed houses in these settlements are snow topping the sheer cliffs.

The caldera is a huge (7x4 mile) circular deep water basin created from the collapse of the island’s center which 3,600 years ago fell into the volcanic crater. Big oops. So geology is topsy turvy here, with what was down is now up and all that jazz. Hence the sharp sheer multicolored (from white lime via red copper to black lava) cliffs and air-pocketed surfaces. The volcano story is not over. There is a huge underwater one named KOLOMBO just 4 miles off the island and it’s rather active. Last year a long series of earthquakes shook the island and caused some serious anxiety as well as a bunch of trip cancellations. All that wild extraordinary beauty comes from nature but nature gives and nature takes.

Ok on to safer topics like tzatziki. Olive oil my dears is the secret. Isn’t it most of the time? Olive oil fixes everything and in the cooking class I took it was poured from what looked like a huge goose-neck stainless steel watering can. Forget table spoons, go for the pour over. On to: Capers. Sun-dried tomatoes. Kalamata olives. Fava. Eggplant. Garlic.

I spent three nights, which is just right if you are after seeing other islands. It would be worth even a two night stop if you really can’t fit it in otherwise. The island has a desert climate and is one of only two places in the world where grapes are grown with the kouloura (basket) vine-training method . Prepare to be charmed.