Lithuania
A few hours in and it already seems obvious that Vilnius (the capital) deserves its own write up. I try not to arrive on Sundays in any new European city because everything is quiet, deserted, closed, without juju. There is no vibe coursing through city veins. Well, unless you arrive in Vilnius on the final day of their annual “Pink Soup Fest”, an extravaganza to celebrate the iconic cold beet root based soup every household swears by. People are known to argue about best recipes and whether it should be eaten with extra potatoes on the side or with a boiled egg. Spicy or mild. Whatever. It’s really good. I also ordered Kvass (a local fermented grain beverage using dark rye bread) and was a bit shocked to be served a half liter Guinness-beer-Look-alike drink. It was delicious. Very low alcohol content I was told.
Something else must be going on because the old town (hello café society!) is full of traditionally dressed choirs singing in public places. Vilnius has been named Europe’s greenest capital in 2025. I was struck by their public solidarity with Ukraine: flags, flower beds, and messages on all buses. Russia is just a four hour driving distance away, in Kaliningrad, an isolated pocket on the Baltic Sea. The city used to be a hub for transport to the Baltic countries and frequented by Ukraine, Belarus, and Russian tourists. The war changed all that. A lot of Ukrainians have taken refuge here to work and live. Borders are heavily enforced again. Prices have gone up. Most people can speak Russian but efforts are made to currently not use the language as a sign of protest.
The city has been founded in 1323, sports 48 churches (I swear, I have seen half of them) and has a river going through it. There is the old, new, and ugly (Soviet era) architecture in distinct parts of the city. Their cathedral has high white columns in front and looks confusingly like a stately government building from certain angles. Once just fifteen minutes outside the urban area, there is nothing but nature. Forests, villages, lakes, stork nests high above the ground, signs of good luck. Bright yellow rapeseed fields.
I have joined my fellow group travelers, there are 20 English speakers with a refreshing mix of nationalities (UK, NZ, AU, US). Mostly couples. A few soloists. The tone is friendly. We mostly stick to ourselves. It works for me.
City explorations are tiring but they seem to be the necessary beginner’s path into a culture. One might decide later whether to come back and go deeper. Except that method does not work for me anymore. These days, this is it. Too many other destinations left to soak in before time and circumstances will inevitably slow me down. I am fine with that, taking it all in with eyes wide open.
